Eating out and about in Roma

This post started out being about Churches in Roma however that was taking too long and was too hard so I'll save that post for another day.   Right now I'm going to relay our adventures, so far, about eating out. Every once in a while we give Henry a day off.  Were he to take an extended vacation, such as the Pope plans on doing, there would be consequences... I would lose weight, lots of weight.  But eating, in or out, gives us many hours of enjoyment.  We like to reminisce not only about where we ate but what we ate.   When we think of food we think of the delicious tomatoes of Montepulciano, the Bolognese sauce in Bologna, the pork hocks in Aix and our extraordinary lunch at Ilhauesern.  I think of my 10 course Rebelais Menu at the Pic in Valence where I gorged myself whilst Henry spent time in the bathroom recovering from food poisoning (another place earlier in the day).  Having that in mind we have been seeking out some great places to eat in Rome.  We are not simply relying on what we see as we walk along, we are relying on foodie reviews.  We've been fooled before.  For instance the first night we were here.  Being a little tired and simply hungry we stopped off here - although not bad, not memorable because I forget what I had and was likely too tired to take pictures...

Once settled and having stocked up Trattoria Via Giulia, 179, we ventured out one Sunday to Testaccio (a Rome neighbourhood) for lunch.  We had decided to have lunch versus dinner at some of the more pricier places and Henry had read about Felice's in a New York Times column on Rome trattorias.  We arrived at about 12:30 p.m. however the place was packed! Actually outside there is hardly any signage and initially walked on by.   The place looked closed.  It turns out Sunday lunch is particularly busy as many Roman families head out for lunch after church.  We needed a reservation so made one for the following Sunday.  Having nowhere to eat we wandered up Via Marmorata.   We came across a restaurant called Pirellis but once again thought it was closed.  No windows you could see in.  No lighted signs.  I had my IPad with me so looked up Pirellis in Elizabeth Minchelli's EAT ROME.   Yes, Pirellis (along with Felices) was highly recommended.  We were thinking we would have to come back at another time when all of a sudden the door opened.  WELL.... the smells wafted out the door so in we went.  It too was crowded

The waiter, who we believe to be the son of the owner, found us a table for two,  so grateful and hungry.  All the waiters have obviously been there for years.  AND, for sure, we were the only tourists.    

Henry had,

Tonarelli Cacio et Pepe

and Green Salad

I had,

Stracciatella Soup

and 

and Oxtails

We were both very satisfied with our meals.  It is a very homey place and really enjoyed our lunch - will definitely try to return once more before we leave.  Lunch, including house wine cost 48 Euros.   

Having made a reservation at Felice's we returned there a week later.  Felice's is a much newer restaurant and Minchelli's review had indicated that the waiters were snooty - so be it.  They were somewhat.  That doesn't really bother Henry and I as we're there to eat a good meal, not make friends.  Henry had a Primi of Spaghetti Carbonara; in his words it was "ok", not the best.   He's pretty discerning when it comes to Spaghetti Carbonara and along with his constant pursuit of "the best" bolognese sauce, carbonara is another pursuit. 

Henry's Carbonara

I had the house special which is also a Tonnarelli Cecia et Pepe - we can't recall tasting each others so can't compare the two (between Pirelli's and Felices).... to me pasta is a comfort food so it is ALWAYS good...  They toss it at the table with a great deal of flourish as though they've just created the most wonderul Ceasar - oh well, ya gotta have a gimmick.

"Tossing" the Tonnarelli Cecia et Pepe

For our Secondi... Henry had Veal and I had Lamb.  Well Henry's veal beat my Lamb hands down!  We also shared a plate of peas.  As is usually the case with us, we order enough to keep us full in case we miss dinner and breakie, lunch and dinner the next day

Henry's Veal - YUM YUM

Jo's Lamb

The meal at Felice's was 78 euros.  Little more than we planned on spending for lunch.  We had, and always will from now on, dell vino de casa... cheap(erish) but good.

Well now, I've saved the best for last.  We were out wandering about as usual and decided to have lunch out yet again.  As we were wandering I again went to Minchelli's EAT ROME to see what was recommended nearby.  It turns out there is a small restaurant in the Jewish Quarter.  We found the address then tried to find the place.  After walking a good extra mile, we finally returned to where we had started.... this is the place... would you have guessed:

The restaurant is called Soro Margherita and has been frequented by quite a number of famous  actors (Meryl Streep for one)  Elizabeth calls it a "hole in the wall" and it is, quite literally.  No windows, no signs, just a small door in the side of a large building.  Something under construction in front.  Well this is what we found inside:

Add caption

When we arrived...

and 15 minutes later:

Unable to decided, and with the waitresses accommodating suggestion, we were going to have a "little" tasting menu to "share"... HA!  This is what we had 

Polenta with tomato sauce and sausage:

Meat Ravioli with Ricotta Cheese on top -

Henry and I aren't fond of Polenta usually but this.... to die for!

Meatballs - delicious! Obviously veal and some other ground meats. Soft and smooth.

Frittata... also Yum Yum ... Nice spicy (Henry felt a bit salty) but delicioso! 

This is best Artichoke antipasti I have ever tasted. Slightly smokey taste....

Deep fried Artichoke leaves... crunchy and delishious..

Owner waving goodbye... Ciao for now because we WILL be BACK!

And Ciao to our family and friends for now.  We enjoyed sharing our lunches with you.  I'm full now and must get on with the CHURCHES... so much has been seen, so much more to see.  Until we are able to join you for lunch take care and keep well....hugs to those far and wide... Joanne and Henry.