Ostia Antica

Last month we made a visit to OSTIA ANTICA.  Henry and I always reflect on   places we visit and what makes them special from others.  Rome we have decided is special not only because it has history, because many places do, but because so much of that history is still VISIBLE.  For me being the inveterate skeptic this is particularly important.  Perhaps that's why I have difficulty with historical data; unless I can feel or touch it, I have trouble accepting it.  Ostia Antica is one of those places  around Rome where not only can you read about history but you can actually wander about the place and imagine LIVING it.  I can see myself wandering about in my stola, peplos or chiton (women's garb in Roman times) with my clay wine pot, lounging and prophesying about life.   Having said that, in order to get to the place of my imagination, we caught our train at Roma Porta.  Trains go every 15 minutes and for the most part of the 45 minute trip (we went right to the end just to see what was there - nothing) hardly any passengers.  I just have to make a negative comment here - the trains are appalling, our pictures flattering.  Graffiti everywhere.  So much so that it was difficult finding a seat with a window we could see out of.   

Train to Ostia 

These pictures do not accurately reflect the MESS the train is in because we selected a seat with the most visibility. Most other windows are TOTALLY covered in GRAFFITTI.  It is my personal opinion that anyone caught defacing public property be given jail time, a lashing, or perhaps made to wash or repaint buildings during their leisure time for a year!

Ostia Antica is huge and was formerly a sea port (no longer as over time the harbor silted up) 2,000 years ago.  A thriving commercial centre of approx. 60,000 people.  When Rome fell, so did Ostia. As you walk around the streets of Ostia you can see the Baths of Neptune (apparently they washed with olive oil versus soap ... would be great for dry skin but not sure about how effective it would be for cleaning). Along Via Nasa di Diana is the House of Diana (multi-storied tenements), House of Apulius with preserved mosaic floors, Piazzale delle Corporazioni, remains of shops and trading offices, the Forum and Capitol Buildings...Here are just a small selection of our photos... hopefully it will give you some sense of scale and quality of the ruins.

The Public Latrine - ingenious

Public Bath

Floor Mosaics

As we were leaving a couple asked us if we knew the way out.  It turns out they were from Argentina but he spoke very good English and was familiar with Vancouver as he had friends who live there.  It truly is such a small world now.  Well more to come.  Time as always flies but I think we have made full use of our time here.... Ciao for now, keep well until we return, Henry and Joanne

Our almost daily routine...

They say "When in Rome do as the Romans do" so we do, to a degree.   I've adapted quite well inasmuch as I will not order a Capuccino after 11:30 a.m.  Henry is set in his ways and he orders them at all hours.   I usually drink my coffee with milk and although these appear to have milk, many do not. Espresso is just simply too strong for me.  It matters not, wherever you go there is a coffee bar.  At certain times of the day (early morning and mid afternoon) they are packed to the gills.  Many also offer shots of liquor and even at early morning, we've seen some fellows having a shot.  We usually stand at the counter or if available and not surcharged, sit at a table.  It's quite an enjoyable experience.   I know, we have the same in Canada and the U.S., it's called Starbucks, Tim Hortons or any other number of chain coffee retailers.  One of the main differences is, Italians LOVE to talk and why wouldn't they - their language is so Romantic sounding.  I really wish I could learn it.  If they don't have someone with them to talk to, they talk on their phones or alternatively to themselves!  Not only do they talk, but they talk in loud voices.   Oh how I wish I understood what they were saying - then I'd really have some stories to tell.  The coffee runs anywhere from 1 euro to the high end place, 1 1/2 euros.  

The granddaddy of them all by the looks of the line-ups (bigger than is showing in this particular picture) is Lant Eustachio il caffee.  They have a line of the most adorable espresso pots and although I did take a picture, can't seem to find it right now.  Will post another soon because I believe I'll be going back there to purchase one. Love Love Love them. 

While I'm writing this I'm thinking. I haven't seen a Starbucks anywhere!  Starbucks is everywhere.  I'm going to look it up.  Perhaps they are unadaptable and won't give up their Grande which wouldn't work well with the Italians.... just a sec...

"I'm sorry to tell you that (fortunately on my point of view) starbucks has not yet settled in Italy...cause we have a different way for Coffee, just a quick espresso and that's it!      Simon"

Well, there you have it. Straight from the horse's (er Simon's) mouth.  Precisely the reason I'm writing this blog so I can really explore what is going on around me.  Above quote was found in Trip Advisor (the new Frommers).  I'm thinking though that Starbucks may want to be a little more flexible than Henry. For all the coffee the Italians  drink Starbucks could make a killing if they'd just give up their Grande Vendi $%^&... (I'll never learn Starbuck's ordering protcol and am reminded of that every time I try to order a coffee there and find myself being given a "ordering" lesson.  "Oh, you meant a Medium Grande Vendi Coffee, not a Grande Medium Vendi Coffee".  I leave there every time feeling just a little more insecure.  It sets me back for months with feelings of inadequacy and illiteracy.... oh it's not that kind of blog.

Well friends and family, CIAO for now until we can get together and have a chat over a cup of Jo which we know will be sooner than later....take care, be safe and keep well, Henry and Joanne. 

Concerti.... what would the plural be in Italian

Well it's been a few days and we've been busy as usual.  Now, some of these things I save up so don't be confused, they didn't all happen in one day.  Henry and I have been very very lucky.   Seems that there are concerti(s) going on all the time ... you only have to keep your eyes and ears open.  Aside from that Henry is a real sleuth as is Ernie apparently.  Let's  see now, not in any particular order..... there was:

The Oratorio del Gonfalone:  The building is quite amazing in itself; frescoed everywhere.  I could recite its' history but if you go here  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oratorio_del_Gonfalone you'll get a much better and more accurate information.  This charming building is about 3 blocks from our apartment so we enjoyed our walk there, a lovely concert and a nice walk home - so Roman.... Henry went back a couple of times for tickets before he found the office and found it when it was open.  Tickets were  20 Euros each.  The performers were a pianist and a tenor (so so sorry, but I can't remember their names).  They were both very engaging and the small local group and us, thoroughly enjoyed it.

Just being in this room alone is awesome - acoustics are also awesome.

Concerti Al Palazzo del Quirinale: On Sunday (exact date happened to be February 17th), Henry and I got up fairly early (for us now) and headed over to the Quirinale Palace to take a tour of the Presidential palace as well as  enjoy a concerti.  Tickets were only 5 Euros (Henry was free because in this case they did included foreigners in the 65 and under rule)  We have since learned that the palace is ONLY open on Sundays for three hours.  When we arrived we noted a long line-up but couldn't find another entrance for the concert which was to begin at 11:50 a.m. So we waited, and we waited.  We're getting used (somewhat) to waiting.  The Italians seem to be known for creating line-ups and herding people.  Unfortunately, there is a large  group of Italians who don't know how to line-up.  They look like this:

Line butt - er - inners above.

Now I know we should be respectful of our elders.  Also, it is of course reasonable and expected that you should give up your seat on the bus for someone a) older than you and b) (Henry) for a female but we're going to have to draw the line somewhere.  Why should I wait in line for 2 hours and then miss a concert because someone older came along, hours late and BUTTED In.. It happens all the time here.   They'd don't just butt in they literally beat their way in because they're usually carrying weapons (they call them canes)... 

Also, while we were waiting in line and moving further back by "the people with the gray hair", we were also shifted back while tour group after tour group went ahead of us.  Finally, we joined a group.  Yes, we didn't speak Italian, weren't wearing fur coats and they kept looking at us strangely as if they didn't recognize us. Go figure!  We hurried through a tour of the palace in order to make the concert and get a reasonable seat.  Performing was Beatrice Rana.  She is only 20 years old and was an outstanding pianist.  The room glistened and the music beautiful.  She also has a Canadian connection as  

In June 2011, 18 year-old Beatrice Rana won First Prize at the Montreal International Music Competition. She was then described by Le Devoir as “not just a pianist, but most of all an artist”. Beatrice Rana also won all the other special prizes, gaining the attention of audiences and critics and imposing herself as one of the most promising talents of the new generation.

Beatrice is already a guest of presitigious concert series and festivals throughout the world, such as Zurich’s Tonhalle, Wigmore Hall, La Roque d’Anthéron piano festival, Radio-France Festival in Montpellier, Lanaudière Festival in Montreal, Vancouver Recital Society, Domaine Forget in Quebec, La Folle Journée Festival in Nantes, Busoni Festival in Bolzano, Sala Verdi for Milan’s Società dei Concerti.

Basilica di Santa Maria sopra Minerva:  Henry found this one "In Rome Now"  Ernie apparently told Henry about that site which is very "incite" ful.   We headed over to the Basilica quite early (wanted to beat some of those types noted above) and found ourselves quite nicely seated with a good view of the performers.  The Concerti comprised Credo RV 591 (per coro a 4 voci miste, archi e basso continuo), Magificat RV 610 (per soli, 2 cori a 4 voci miste e due orchestra) and Gloria RV 589 (per soli, coro a 4 voci miste e orchestra)  The lead singers comprised three sopranos and two contraltos. All were amazing and once again the acoustics were fantastic.  Again, it seems it may be best to be last and push your way in.  As the church filled up, more seats were added which affected our view a little but everything could be heard very well from anywhere in the huge Basilica.  A wonderful night largely attended by locals.

This was the seating before they added 4 additional chairs along the aisles for "latecomers"... shoulda been, they had the best seats but knowing my luck they wouldn't have added any.

Yours truly - early arrival

The Good The Bad and The Ugly..

Well let's face it.  Nowhere is perfect, it is just some places are better than others.  Henry and I made the decision to "live" Rome for one reason only at first ... we felt it had enough to entertain us for awhile.  It doesn't matter where in the world, Rome probably has the most treasures, the most history and the most to see of anywhere in the world.  If not, I'd love to hear where else.   Having said that, to everything there is a Good, Bad and Ugly.  I'm not going to start with Good because I want to end there.   I am loving every minute of every day and I wouldn't want to leave the wrong impression.... but to every coin, and I've seen a few of them here, there is a bad side.  Let's start with Ugly, the worst of the best....

The UGLY!.. Now Henry and I don't use transit on a regular basis at home although, in my opinion, we should.  Having said that there is nothing worse in the world (Kim may think otherwise because she lives it everyday too!)...... the SMELLs of people. Unfortunately, on our bus the other day was a fellow who had not bathed, I'm sure, since Julius Ceasar was assassinated just around the corner from us.  We held our breaths as long as possible, discreetly held Kleenexes over our noses and averted our faces.  Also, we are allergic.  I know, everybody over 45 is allergic.  Why is it then that some women (and men too) insist on using those "powdery" "flowery" smelling perfumes.  I can only imagine what was going on under Marie Antoinette's skirts and through her hair.... ugh.  It is very painful.  And sometimes, although we always try to avoid rush hours, the bus is soooooo cramped that I don't need to hold on cause there's no way on earth I'm going to be able to fall to the ground as the driver jerks, stops and charges at pedestrians...

The BAD!... Those who have travelled all over the world know that the politest people in the world live in North America. Canadians are known as being ultra-Polite (stupidly polite)  and the Americans are known as ultra-Service orientated.  I don't want to criticize the Europeans because I LOVE THEM!... I love their aloofness and most importantly, I feel, they treat everybody equally. Equally meaning "JUST AS BAD".  No discrimination here.  Take for example, we were at our local Despar (they should change the name it sounds just a little "desperate" and "disparaging").  We are in line and there are three people in front of us and three behind.  The store is small, and we are all cramped with our purchases.  We all adjust, clamp our arms close to our bodies and hold on.  Well, it turns out that the cashier is thirsty.   We are thirsty too!  Instead of tallying up our purchases and then taking care of his thirst, he shuts his till.  He goes over to bottled water department, selects his water, goes over to the other checkout (miracle in this case, two checkouts!), interrupts her line up, purchases HIS bottle of water and then casually, slowly after taking a drink, and importantly, re-opens his till to serve us!  Or how about this one, Henry is in his favourite Cortinetti place (Croissant to most)... He waits in line and the clerk selects the woman behind him.  That was really unsettling to him. He's changed Cortinetti places.  I say BRAVO!   Now this isn't tourist stuff, this is daily life in Roma.

The GOOD!.. There is good.  I love our location.  I love that when we go out the door we can go North, South, East and West and see something different. I Love that I feel comfortable out at night - people all over the place.  I love that the stores are open late (weird hours), I love the smells (other than while on the bus) I love the activity and I LOVE BEING A ROMAN.... I know that's funny, I'm only a temporary but I feel real!  I'm starting to scorn the tourists!  People are starting NOT to offer to sell me something.  Everywhere we go there are new discoveries.  A store we didn't notice that actually was a store!.. Something that looks so small goes around and around and around.  They use space sooo well.   We LOVE VEAL!  Henry loves his daily CAPPUCCINO! (me, not sooo much).  WE LOVE POMODORI (oh sorry I already mentioned that).


Well I know there are more GOOD BAD AND UGLIES but enough for now.  Ciao and wherever you are appreciate that you are close to the family you love.  That's all that's important no matter where you are!

LET ME ENTERTAIN YOU, LET ME ENTERTAIN YOU!...

Well, mission accomplished.... We have finally been to a ballet, a recital and a concert that Ernie hasn't even if we did have to go all the way to Rome to do it.

Teatro Dell'Opera di Roma... On February 12th Henry and I treated ourselves to the ballet GISELLE.   The tickets were very reasonable and we chose a seat on the Platea (or main floor) versus having a reserved box but without a reserved seat (i.e. there are six chairs in each box and it's first come first serve for the seats.  Even if you got the first two seats, some of the boxes have extremely difficult viewing angles).   It seems that, perhaps for other than opening nights, the people in Rome dress much the same as Vancouverites.  There is a mix of those who are dressed to the nines in furs (Whatever happened to all the activists.  Fur coats everywhere in Rome but not a pot of paint to be seen!) and then there were just us plain folk.  Oh by the way, notice Henry's newest pair of Italian scarpe.  He looked very debonair.  I not so much but must include a picture so my children will have something to remember me by...

Lobby Bar

Stalls

Our tickets - Pretty reasonable. This is Henry's with a 25% discount for being a senior. Usually this discount only applies if you are an EU resident...

We were early - the place did fill up..

Every building has a dome and every dome has a Michelangelo (or something similar)

Yours truly - why do camera's hate me so?

Now if that doesn't look Berlusconi (ish).... Those scarpas are dashing.  All he needs is a nubile young thing sitting beside him. Let me just grab my seat.

Now if Berlusconi had been here, he would have been sitting right above us.

The Lobby

The Performers.....

Once the theatre filled.....

It was a night to remember.  The performance was wonderful.  This is Henry's favourite ballet and it was a first for me.  The principal dancers were Gaia Straceamore who is the Prima Ballerina for the Rome Ballet and Friedemann Vogel, principal danser for the Stuttgart Ballet.  I wish we knew how to operate the movie options on our cameras... we'll have to figure it out.  I should also mention that there is a Canadian connection with respect to Friedemann... 

Friedemann Vogel was born in Stuttgart (Germany), completed his ballet training at the Princess Grace Academy of Classical Dance in Monte Carlo with the John Gilpin scolarship from Princess Antoniette de Monaco. He showed his outstanding talent by winning several international ballet competition awards.  In 1997 he won the Prix de Lausanne,the Gold medall in the Prix de Louxembourg, Eurocity competion in Italy and 1998 he won the Jackson Competition USA.In September 1998 Friedemann Vogel  joined the Stuttgart Ballet and quickly rose through the ranks. In 2002 he was promoted to first soloist, the company's highest rank. In the same year he also won the much-coveted Erik Bruhn Prize  in Toronto Canada. Friedemann Vogel has been elected Dancer of the Year 2010 by the international dance critics survey of the magazine TANZ and recently In June 2012 Friedemann was appointed by the Italian dance magazine Danza&Danza as best male dancer.His repertory includes title roles in the classics, as well as principal roles in pieces by Choreographers ranging from Cranko and Balanchine to Robbins and Kylián ,from Neumeier to Forsythe and McGregor. Friedemann Vogel was invited by the most prestigious companies like the Mariinsky Theater St.Petersburg, Teatro alla Scala Milano, the English National Ballet, the National Ballet of China, the Tokyo Ballet, the Hong Kong Ballet, Ballets de Santiago de Chile, the Finnish National Ballet, Staatsballett Berlin and the Bayerisches Staatsballett, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Royal Swedish Ballet and the Vienna State Ballet.

Oh EM GEE! OMG the Pope is stepping down!

The Pope is retiring and this historic event is taking place this week - while we are in Rome.  We couldn't have planned a trip to Rome, the centre of the Roman Catholic faith worldwide, any better.  Not in 600 years has a Pope "retired".  To me,  this is a welcome change.  I say that because it is my humble opinion that a) everyone deserves a rest and b) the church deserves a leader who is able to lead.  I'm speaking out of turn of course.  I neither attend church on a regular basis, other than when in Rome, nor am I a Roman Catholic.  

Aside from Rome's place in history and the mega mega historical artifacts adorning every building, every street and every underground orifice of this great city, Rome is the centre of the universe for the Roman Catholic church.  And to prove it, of the estimated 900 churches in the city, the majority of them are Roman Catholic.  Now ask Henry, or anyone that knows me, I am no history buff.  Dates go in one ear and out the other.  I've asked what day it is how many times today Henry? I like to look at pretty things, marvel at how they are made, put together and decorated... I wonder, in awe, how they managed to build so much with so little.  I admire the skills of the craftsmen, the architecture and the artistic talents, again so much with so little.  How adept they were at building things to withstand the tests of time yet we build houses and tear them down in five years... will we have anything left to show for our time on earth? I wonder...

Bearing in mind there are over 900 churches in Rome, and we've been to only about a dozen of them so far, I originally though that St. Peter's Basillica at the Vatican was the greatest of them all but I was mistaken... the most austere to me is San Giovanni in Laterano.  Now I'm not going to give a history on each and every church because a) I don't know it and b) you can find that information anywhere.  The reason I love this church is because of this....

This is the outside (from the front)... It was a gorgeous day and Henry got a good picture of the  statues at the top.  In the centre is Christ. To the right is the Pope's former residence, before he moved to the Vatican around 1300. 

Constantine

Oh, and before I forget, since we forgot to take a picture the first time we were here, there is also a huge statue of Constantine - he, according to history and Henry, conquered Maxentius and liberated Rome dedicating the church to god and legalizing Christianity.

The Nave - From this view you can see the huge statues of the apostles.  Now, this part of the church was built after 1600 but it is amazing to walk down this aisle.


I think I might learn something from all this .... that's a good thing.

As I mentioned, there are sooooo many churches in Rome.  Not all are grand and bright but all have their own personality and charm.  For instance, just around the corner from our apartment we came across this:

Humble but beautiful - Chiesa Di Santa Barbara Dei Librari... 

Literally squished between a yogurteria and another building is this small churched. Tucked away as it is at the end of a cup-de-sac, the church of S. Barbara e S. Tommaso d'Aquina dei Librai, its official name, is very small and very overlooked by the casual visitor to Rome; improbable as it seems, it is here, give or take 30 meters, that Julius Caesar was assassinated.  Inside:

Beautiful mixtures of marble - EVERYWHERE...

Correction:  Sorry folks, shouldn't try to write and post a blog at 2:00 a.m.   Don't know why I couldn't sleep.

Another of the large churches of Rome is Santa Maria Maggiore.  As you enter it is also imposing and grand.  I've tried to picture a building in Vancouver which I felt would be of similar scale and I'm sorry I can't think of one.  Not including something like B.C. Place of course.  Well the Nave of Santa Maria is very imposing.  Not only for it's size but also for the small alcove under the Nave.  This houses the urn like object in which there are a couple of pieces of wood.  Sorry but you can barely make them out in my picture.  These pieces of wood are apparently from Jesus' manger - that's what the story says, I'm just saying...

Well, there are roughly 897 churches left and so many more things to show so I'll leave this for now and come back to it later.  Love to all, be safe and enjoy life! Ciao.