Eating out and about in Roma

This post started out being about Churches in Roma however that was taking too long and was too hard so I'll save that post for another day.   Right now I'm going to relay our adventures, so far, about eating out. Every once in a while we give Henry a day off.  Were he to take an extended vacation, such as the Pope plans on doing, there would be consequences... I would lose weight, lots of weight.  But eating, in or out, gives us many hours of enjoyment.  We like to reminisce not only about where we ate but what we ate.   When we think of food we think of the delicious tomatoes of Montepulciano, the Bolognese sauce in Bologna, the pork hocks in Aix and our extraordinary lunch at Ilhauesern.  I think of my 10 course Rebelais Menu at the Pic in Valence where I gorged myself whilst Henry spent time in the bathroom recovering from food poisoning (another place earlier in the day).  Having that in mind we have been seeking out some great places to eat in Rome.  We are not simply relying on what we see as we walk along, we are relying on foodie reviews.  We've been fooled before.  For instance the first night we were here.  Being a little tired and simply hungry we stopped off here - although not bad, not memorable because I forget what I had and was likely too tired to take pictures...

Once settled and having stocked up Trattoria Via Giulia, 179, we ventured out one Sunday to Testaccio (a Rome neighbourhood) for lunch.  We had decided to have lunch versus dinner at some of the more pricier places and Henry had read about Felice's in a New York Times column on Rome trattorias.  We arrived at about 12:30 p.m. however the place was packed! Actually outside there is hardly any signage and initially walked on by.   The place looked closed.  It turns out Sunday lunch is particularly busy as many Roman families head out for lunch after church.  We needed a reservation so made one for the following Sunday.  Having nowhere to eat we wandered up Via Marmorata.   We came across a restaurant called Pirellis but once again thought it was closed.  No windows you could see in.  No lighted signs.  I had my IPad with me so looked up Pirellis in Elizabeth Minchelli's EAT ROME.   Yes, Pirellis (along with Felices) was highly recommended.  We were thinking we would have to come back at another time when all of a sudden the door opened.  WELL.... the smells wafted out the door so in we went.  It too was crowded

The waiter, who we believe to be the son of the owner, found us a table for two,  so grateful and hungry.  All the waiters have obviously been there for years.  AND, for sure, we were the only tourists.    

Henry had,

Tonarelli Cacio et Pepe

and Green Salad

I had,

Stracciatella Soup

and 

and Oxtails

We were both very satisfied with our meals.  It is a very homey place and really enjoyed our lunch - will definitely try to return once more before we leave.  Lunch, including house wine cost 48 Euros.   

Having made a reservation at Felice's we returned there a week later.  Felice's is a much newer restaurant and Minchelli's review had indicated that the waiters were snooty - so be it.  They were somewhat.  That doesn't really bother Henry and I as we're there to eat a good meal, not make friends.  Henry had a Primi of Spaghetti Carbonara; in his words it was "ok", not the best.   He's pretty discerning when it comes to Spaghetti Carbonara and along with his constant pursuit of "the best" bolognese sauce, carbonara is another pursuit. 

Henry's Carbonara

I had the house special which is also a Tonnarelli Cecia et Pepe - we can't recall tasting each others so can't compare the two (between Pirelli's and Felices).... to me pasta is a comfort food so it is ALWAYS good...  They toss it at the table with a great deal of flourish as though they've just created the most wonderul Ceasar - oh well, ya gotta have a gimmick.

"Tossing" the Tonnarelli Cecia et Pepe

For our Secondi... Henry had Veal and I had Lamb.  Well Henry's veal beat my Lamb hands down!  We also shared a plate of peas.  As is usually the case with us, we order enough to keep us full in case we miss dinner and breakie, lunch and dinner the next day

Henry's Veal - YUM YUM

Jo's Lamb

The meal at Felice's was 78 euros.  Little more than we planned on spending for lunch.  We had, and always will from now on, dell vino de casa... cheap(erish) but good.

Well now, I've saved the best for last.  We were out wandering about as usual and decided to have lunch out yet again.  As we were wandering I again went to Minchelli's EAT ROME to see what was recommended nearby.  It turns out there is a small restaurant in the Jewish Quarter.  We found the address then tried to find the place.  After walking a good extra mile, we finally returned to where we had started.... this is the place... would you have guessed:

The restaurant is called Soro Margherita and has been frequented by quite a number of famous  actors (Meryl Streep for one)  Elizabeth calls it a "hole in the wall" and it is, quite literally.  No windows, no signs, just a small door in the side of a large building.  Something under construction in front.  Well this is what we found inside:

Add caption

When we arrived...

and 15 minutes later:

Unable to decided, and with the waitresses accommodating suggestion, we were going to have a "little" tasting menu to "share"... HA!  This is what we had 

Polenta with tomato sauce and sausage:

Meat Ravioli with Ricotta Cheese on top -

Henry and I aren't fond of Polenta usually but this.... to die for!

Meatballs - delicious! Obviously veal and some other ground meats. Soft and smooth.

Frittata... also Yum Yum ... Nice spicy (Henry felt a bit salty) but delicioso! 

This is best Artichoke antipasti I have ever tasted. Slightly smokey taste....

Deep fried Artichoke leaves... crunchy and delishious..

Owner waving goodbye... Ciao for now because we WILL be BACK!

And Ciao to our family and friends for now.  We enjoyed sharing our lunches with you.  I'm full now and must get on with the CHURCHES... so much has been seen, so much more to see.  Until we are able to join you for lunch take care and keep well....hugs to those far and wide... Joanne and Henry.

TRATTORIA VIA GIULIA, 179 ROMA

Are there some of you out there wondering what in the heck we've been eating?  I know, I know, food for Joanne and Henry is like oxygen for breathing.  Firstly we are in the breadbasket of the world as far as we're concerned.  Italian, French, German - we love it all.  We've tasted it all and yes we love it all.   One of the reasons we chose to "live" in Italy was our love for the taste of the pomodori (tomatoes for those of you who have a slightly less knowledge of Italian than I do).  We first experienced the taste when we were in Montepulciano and had a delicious Margherita style pizza.  How can I describe in words, the most delicious burst of flavour we experienced. The tomatoes actually tasted like the fruit they are.  Sweet.  Not that acidic, tasteless kind we get at home whether it be au natural, on the vine or greenhouse grown.  I don't know why but there must be something in the soil or the way they grow them or process them here.  You haven't really lived until you've eaten a tomato grown in ITALY, seriously.

The ubiquitous pomodori sharing centre stage with some, also delicious, cheeses.  On the left is the:

Leerdammer:Boulder-shaped, creamery, semi-hard cheese made from cow's milk.  I liked this cheese. It is slightly tart but overall enjoyable just to nibble. On the right is a type of:Pecorino is the name given to all Italian cheeses made from sheep's milk.  I really love Pecorino and so generally, does Henry.  I forget the exact name of the brand we picked up but Henry found it slightly too tart. Not so for me.

Of course, cheese and tomatoes are not our only sustenance.  We have not yet found a Costco and because we shop on a daily basis, our two main food sources are Carrefour and Despar.  No, they are not large shopping centres but for the locals, and we are currently locals, the primary sources of cooking and cleaning staples.   Also, bear in mind that we must carry what we buy so we get lots of exercise hunting and gathering through the streets of Rome.

This was one shopping trip.  

Above is a sample of our findings on a recent "hunting" and gathering trip.  Cleaning supplies are always a must particularly when everything is constantly being coated with calcium (sinks, taps, pots, pans, us).  Also we look for bargains, note our chicken was 30% "oferte".  This  little haul which included cheese, chicken, veal cutlets, soap (dishwasher, laundry) was 40 euros but it's going a long way.  Aside from Dispar and Carefour we are now regulars at Campo di Fiori for fresh vegetables.  We have also ventured as far as Testaccio as this is more a "working man" area and prices more reasonable that Campo di Fiori.

A sampling of the cheese selection at the Carrefour.... mmmm Parmegiano Regiano tastes different here.

Yes, that's me in the apron.  I subscribe to the Elizabeth Minchelli blog.  She also has an app for the IPAD EATS ROME which I purchased before we left.  One of her recipes (I don't care for most of them) was roasted cauliflower and leeks.  Well if I do say so myself YUM YUM..... Before and after are above.  Simply cut the vegetables, salt, pepper, sage (fresh from Campo di Fiori), coat with olive oil and roast in the oven for about 30 mins.... Here, at Trattoria Via Giulia, 179 we are having it with a veal chop we bought at La Florentina, a meat market located in Campo di Fiori.... mmmm, mmmmm if I do say so myself.  By the way, no, Henry and I didn't each have a veal chop.... we actually split it.  (and yes, that's Henry wearing the apron now) Needless to say our plates were empty and our bellies full at the end of the meal. 

For lunch one day we made personal pizzas.  Instead of of pizza crust we used flatbreads bought at Forno's, also located in Camp di Fiori.  Believe me, we shop all over and I've got blisters to prove it, but for convenience the Campo is just around the corner.  Henry had a salami, tomato and cheese and I had a Margherita - homemade by yours truly. Just those delicious pomodori and cheese.  Again, Trattoria Via Giulia, 179 is the place to go in my humble opinion.

And of course, there is always roast chicken.  I wonder, why is it that the food tastes so real in Europe.  The chicken was sweet and delicious.

We also had a pork chop one night.  Yes, each had one to ourselves, greedy greedy.  Vegies were from Campo 

Now this pasta is something Henry copied from when we ate out at Pirelli's (more to come on that at another time).... His version was delicious.  Called Cacio e Pepe it is simply Taglietelli with pepper, olive oil and Pecorino (Henry used Parmigiano Regiano).   To die for.  Also, goes without saying that the garlic bread Henry made was delicious because the garlic was bought locally at the Campo too... 

This is Henry's typical breakfast - I say Henry's because I don't usually eat Jam.  The jam by the way is Cherry.  Two small jars were left by Chiara (the woman who looks after the apartment) along with a bottle of wine for new arrivals.   

Of course we've eaten much more than the above and no, we don't always eat at Trattoria Via Giulia, 179 although it's probably our favourite place.  I'll be posting soon about our meals out so you can be the judge, based on appearances alone.  So far, amount of weight lost 0 lbs, but what can I say...   Wish you could join us for dinner.  Time seems to be flying, so much to write, so much to see... missing family and friends but as you can see we are well - hoping you are too.  Keep in touch and hugs to all, joanne and henry.  Ciao for now!

IS IT REALLY LIKE IT IS IN THE PICTURES......

Ciao again friends and family.  Henry and I continue to live the life of Romans - sounds so ancient.  We don't have a chariot and Henry doesn't yet own a Centurion's helmet although that is on his list of things to buy.  I can just see him walking up No. 2 Road in Richmond, on his way to Safeway, with his helmet and sword....hmm.  How about... we are living the life in Roma!

Now, we've rented more than one place through either VRBO or Homeaway successfully but I confess, there are still those niggling moments when I wonder "Will the place really be like it's pictured?"or even worse  "Will it even really exist." ... I am pleased to say, that on both counts, the answer is yes for this rental.  Well, now we know.  This is the real skinny...

The Green door is our front entry at Via Giulia, 179.  To the right, still decorated for Christmas, is a hairdressing shop.  I haven't been there yet but certainly need to.

This is looking to the right as you come out the front door.

Looking to the left as we leave the front entry.  Across the street from us, with the barred windows, is the Accademie d'Ungheria (Hungarian Academy).  According to their website the academy is for the promotion of cultural events. There seems to be some traffic coming and going so something must be going on inside.  The arch is called the Arco di Farnese and was designed by Michelangelo.  It was originally built to enable the Farnese's to cross the Tiber, but was never finished.  Only the portion to cross to the palace across the street (now the Academie d'Ungheria) was ever finished.  The Tiber is just behind the buildings on the right. 

Home at last.  Provisions on hand.  Ho fame - imbatta si in per la cena!  Entrance to the front door to our apartment at via Giulia , 179 (aka Trattoria de la Via Giulia, 179)

Our neighbour's apartment entrance to our left. Note the tall door and entry gate.  For our apartment, the door is about Henry's height.... but we love it and call it il nostro casa.

Entering our apartment - the funny looking contraption is the radiator. 

This is the Fontana del Mascherone (aka Fountain of the Mask).... Looks to me that the fellow is not feeling too well.   Although the guidebooks say that the fountains in Rome are potable - Eugene - this one IS NOT!  When the Farnese's had parties they had wine gushing from the fountain..... sigh..... we're 400 years too late.

A small but efficient kitchen. Water is Rome is very very calcimic (not likely a word but works for me).... what I mean is that there is a lot of calcium in it.  Guidebooks say that what the heck, calcium's good for you isn't it.  It's not too good for the electric kettle.  I thought it was left over boiled milk but not - it had a coating of calcium inside.  We drink bottled water however make coffee and tea and cook with the water from the tap.  If we come home "calcified" so be it.

Dishwasher is sooooo cute. Holds about 2 days worth of dishes and does a great job.  Small wonders.

Looks like a microwave.... but

but really a bread (and pastry) box

And the bidet?  Well it's really a laundry basket.

And the washing machine.  Well believe it or not it's actually a washing machine.  Small you say... well guess what.  It holds (and washes really well) a whole lot of clothes.  I am in seventh heaven.  No dryer but no problemo.  There is a drying line in the shower (forgot to take a picture) with clothespins and all. Doesn't get any better...

This is the entry way and I LOVE LOVE LOVE it.  Whole bunch of room  for when you enter and creates a nice space between living and sleeping.  Oh, and as for that sunlight - well a couple of flourescent lamps inserted outside the window does the trick beautifully.  A reviewer did mention the lack of natural light but the lighting is designed so that you FEEL like it's sunlight.  And those lights on the floor... they operate by sensor when you walk by.  Cool eh?

Henry at the office (sans suit)...The flowers were purchased at Campo di Fiori on Friday and today (Wednesday) still beautiful....

So far Life is Good!   Hoping all is well with you and no matter we are enjoying this adventure, always miss family and friends.... Keep in touch and hugs from us.. Ciao for now.

HOUSEKEEPING ITEMS......

Hello from Rome our family and friends.  Ciao!  

It is not my intent to have this blog read as a diary, weather report and record of what we've injested or digested on a daily basis but to be a much more inciteful and informative journal - primarily to force ME to be more observant of my surroundings, help me RETAIN what I've seen and document some of our experiences while on this great journey through life...... ahhhhh Roma, the ETERNAL City.

Having said that, just have to put aside a couple of "housekeeping" items..... I said I would provide more details on our flight last posting.  The reason is........ta da!, for those that don't already know, we were UPgraded by Aeroplan from lesser than human beings to "Business", yes Business CLASS.   How you say?  Was it because Henry is so debonnair (although terribly short tempered today ) and I, it goes without saying (yes, nobody has ever really said it),  am so beautiful and charming?  Not.  As we booked our flights last May I decided in early December to select the best of the worst seats in steerage class.  I called Lufthansa to get their booking number in order to select seats online.  I discovered that one leg of our journey wasn't listed with Lufthansa - theVancouver to Frankfurt flight January 31st.  The reason being was that the flight on the 31st was no longer scheduled.  I contacted Aeroplan to advise and they suggested that I wait before making any changes as they had not yet been advised by Lufthansa of the change.  Joanne - Wait ... hmmm, sort of an oxymoron.. I thought I'd give them two days then would take affirmative action of my own, like change my flight (options were not good - via U.S. through Chicago).  In the winter, are you kidding!  Well as luck would have on the 2nd day we received a voicemail from Aeroplan.  Because of the inconvenience (haha .. we're retired - nothing is inconvenient) they had re-booked us on the January 30th flight however had upgraded us to business class..... just a couple of photos of the flight over....

Quick stop at the Lounge to await our flight.

Lots of leg room here

Fully reclining seats

Overall, flight over not too shabby.  Unfortunately, I was unable to sleep albeit for an hour.  Henry, on the other hand, can fall asleep standing up.  How I envy him.  I watched him snore for hours although he wasn't the loudest cookie in the jar.

Now the bad news - one bag missing when we arrived in Rome.  That in itself wouldn't have been too bad other than Henry couldn't stand still and just wait for me while I went to find our driver who was waiting outside the secured area for us.  I had to get frisked three times going in and out to relay to our driver that I was sorry (he spoke very very little English and I speak even less Italian) but couldn't find Henry and could he please just wait a few more minutes.  Finally third try I found my way to baggage claim (by now I'm really grumpy, have lost my belt and ..... enough said) and found Henry.  He had made arrangements for them to deliver the bag but my preference would have been to wait for it which would be the next flight in an hour.  Off we went - did not get bag until today (Saturday).  What you say was in it?  My toiletries, tops and underwear - perhaps those are non essentials.  I'm used to running around with no underwear and topless (sarcasm).  But also, all our plugs for our electronics.... everything dying on the vine!  Too long a story on the efforts we went to get our bag delivered so I'm going to let it go...... now have bag and am happy as a clam!  Ciao until we next post.    Hope everyone is well and looking forward to hearing from you over the next couple of months.  Henry and Joanne.....