Villa D'Este, Tivoli

Well I don't know about you but I'm about Pope'd out right about now.  I'm part Catholic (mother's side hence the 8 siblings) but christened and took communion as an Anglican (High Anglican therefore almost Catholic).  It has been great being in Rome while this historic event is taking place but I must confess - we get our news from North America.  I was thinking of approaching Peter Mansbridge, our CBC anchor, but then I thought - hmmm, what would I say. Likely nothing.  I have no insights on how the voting went, nor it seems, does anybody else that's talking.  That's the way it should be.  I also don't know what the Italians think - I don't know any of them nor do I speak their language.  From appearances, they seem pretty ho hum about it.   It's mostly the tourists that are running around excited.  So far, I'm impressed with Pope Francis though.  Having said all that, I have had a LOT to do with Cardinals and the Catholic faith these past 6 weeks.   I've had chance to visit a LOT of places where former Cardinals and Popes have Rome'd - no pun intended.

One such place is TIVOLI which is located about 28 KMs east of Rome.  Henry and I caught a metro, a local bus and found our way there.  It wasn't a spectacularly beautiful day but at least, not raining.  Our destination was Villa d'Este and Villa Adrianna (Hadrians Villa).  Villa d'Este was commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito il d'Este who was the son of Lucretia Borgia and the grandson of Pope Alexander VI.  You've probably heard of the Borgias and perhaps have seen the excellent BRAVO series, The Borgias.  Turns out Ippolito was disappointed when he wasn't elected Pope so he was appointed governor of Tivoli by the new Pope instead. Henry heard that Ippolito had been banned from Rome.  I can't find anything to support that right now.  Anyway, for whatever reason, Ippolito the Cardinal went to live at Villa d'Este.  I'm not feeling too sorry for him though after seeing the place.  He and subsequent owners have maintained and developed the Villa over the years. Franz Liszt spent time there as a guest of one Cardinal and during that visit composed Giochi d'Acqua a Villa d'Este.  Now this is a water park that rivals any I've seen recently.  There are umpteen fountains ingeniously operating through an underground aquaduct designed by those talented Romans.  I have some wonderful videos which reflect the sounds of cascading water unfortunately I don't know how to download them, so will have to make do with these pictures for now.

Get a load of that ceiling.  Love love love those deep coved ceilings.

The rooms facing the gardens are a long series.  The Villa is secondary to the gardens.  Unfortunately, although still beautiful, I'll have to imagine the gardens once everything is in bloom as it is too early to tell right now.

Look how deep those walls are.

Ha!  Can hardly wait to get home and get at those walls. 

Mosaics, yep all stone mosaics.

This long row of water works - absolutely astounding and beautiful to walk along.

These pools are at the bottom of the garden

Grandaddy of them all

Hmmm...

INGENIOUS...a waterworks handrail.

Well, Villa d'Este is a lovely wonderful place. Thoroughly enjoyed our visit there and chance to get out of the city for a day was lovely.    Hoping this post finds you all well and your (our soon to be) weather improving.  Ciao from Henry and Joanne

Ostia Antica

Last month we made a visit to OSTIA ANTICA.  Henry and I always reflect on   places we visit and what makes them special from others.  Rome we have decided is special not only because it has history, because many places do, but because so much of that history is still VISIBLE.  For me being the inveterate skeptic this is particularly important.  Perhaps that's why I have difficulty with historical data; unless I can feel or touch it, I have trouble accepting it.  Ostia Antica is one of those places  around Rome where not only can you read about history but you can actually wander about the place and imagine LIVING it.  I can see myself wandering about in my stola, peplos or chiton (women's garb in Roman times) with my clay wine pot, lounging and prophesying about life.   Having said that, in order to get to the place of my imagination, we caught our train at Roma Porta.  Trains go every 15 minutes and for the most part of the 45 minute trip (we went right to the end just to see what was there - nothing) hardly any passengers.  I just have to make a negative comment here - the trains are appalling, our pictures flattering.  Graffiti everywhere.  So much so that it was difficult finding a seat with a window we could see out of.   

Train to Ostia 

These pictures do not accurately reflect the MESS the train is in because we selected a seat with the most visibility. Most other windows are TOTALLY covered in GRAFFITTI.  It is my personal opinion that anyone caught defacing public property be given jail time, a lashing, or perhaps made to wash or repaint buildings during their leisure time for a year!

Ostia Antica is huge and was formerly a sea port (no longer as over time the harbor silted up) 2,000 years ago.  A thriving commercial centre of approx. 60,000 people.  When Rome fell, so did Ostia. As you walk around the streets of Ostia you can see the Baths of Neptune (apparently they washed with olive oil versus soap ... would be great for dry skin but not sure about how effective it would be for cleaning). Along Via Nasa di Diana is the House of Diana (multi-storied tenements), House of Apulius with preserved mosaic floors, Piazzale delle Corporazioni, remains of shops and trading offices, the Forum and Capitol Buildings...Here are just a small selection of our photos... hopefully it will give you some sense of scale and quality of the ruins.

The Public Latrine - ingenious

Public Bath

Floor Mosaics

As we were leaving a couple asked us if we knew the way out.  It turns out they were from Argentina but he spoke very good English and was familiar with Vancouver as he had friends who live there.  It truly is such a small world now.  Well more to come.  Time as always flies but I think we have made full use of our time here.... Ciao for now, keep well until we return, Henry and Joanne

Our almost daily routine...

They say "When in Rome do as the Romans do" so we do, to a degree.   I've adapted quite well inasmuch as I will not order a Capuccino after 11:30 a.m.  Henry is set in his ways and he orders them at all hours.   I usually drink my coffee with milk and although these appear to have milk, many do not. Espresso is just simply too strong for me.  It matters not, wherever you go there is a coffee bar.  At certain times of the day (early morning and mid afternoon) they are packed to the gills.  Many also offer shots of liquor and even at early morning, we've seen some fellows having a shot.  We usually stand at the counter or if available and not surcharged, sit at a table.  It's quite an enjoyable experience.   I know, we have the same in Canada and the U.S., it's called Starbucks, Tim Hortons or any other number of chain coffee retailers.  One of the main differences is, Italians LOVE to talk and why wouldn't they - their language is so Romantic sounding.  I really wish I could learn it.  If they don't have someone with them to talk to, they talk on their phones or alternatively to themselves!  Not only do they talk, but they talk in loud voices.   Oh how I wish I understood what they were saying - then I'd really have some stories to tell.  The coffee runs anywhere from 1 euro to the high end place, 1 1/2 euros.  

The granddaddy of them all by the looks of the line-ups (bigger than is showing in this particular picture) is Lant Eustachio il caffee.  They have a line of the most adorable espresso pots and although I did take a picture, can't seem to find it right now.  Will post another soon because I believe I'll be going back there to purchase one. Love Love Love them. 

While I'm writing this I'm thinking. I haven't seen a Starbucks anywhere!  Starbucks is everywhere.  I'm going to look it up.  Perhaps they are unadaptable and won't give up their Grande which wouldn't work well with the Italians.... just a sec...

"I'm sorry to tell you that (fortunately on my point of view) starbucks has not yet settled in Italy...cause we have a different way for Coffee, just a quick espresso and that's it!      Simon"

Well, there you have it. Straight from the horse's (er Simon's) mouth.  Precisely the reason I'm writing this blog so I can really explore what is going on around me.  Above quote was found in Trip Advisor (the new Frommers).  I'm thinking though that Starbucks may want to be a little more flexible than Henry. For all the coffee the Italians  drink Starbucks could make a killing if they'd just give up their Grande Vendi $%^&... (I'll never learn Starbuck's ordering protcol and am reminded of that every time I try to order a coffee there and find myself being given a "ordering" lesson.  "Oh, you meant a Medium Grande Vendi Coffee, not a Grande Medium Vendi Coffee".  I leave there every time feeling just a little more insecure.  It sets me back for months with feelings of inadequacy and illiteracy.... oh it's not that kind of blog.

Well friends and family, CIAO for now until we can get together and have a chat over a cup of Jo which we know will be sooner than later....take care, be safe and keep well, Henry and Joanne.